18 May 2023, written by Barbara Pleasant
Patty pan squash, with its round, flattened shape and delicate flavor, has been a staple in North American gardens for centuries. Once the most common summer squash, it was often harvested young and tender, unlike other squash varieties, which were left to ripen into pumpkins or gourds. This squash is an ancestral food to Eastern North America, known as “askutasquash” in the Narragansett language.
Historically, patty pan squash has earned a variety of names. American colonists referred to them as “cymlings” due to their resemblance to the shape of an Easter Simnel cake. The French called them “pâtisson,” a term likely linked to the origin of the English name “patty pan.” In Australia, they were known as “button squash,” and today, many U.S. gardeners refer to them as “scallop squash.” These squash are also called “scallopini,” “tulip squash,” or “flying saucers” in culinary circles.
Varieties of Patty Pan Squash
For gardeners seeking to grow an authentic heirloom variety, the ‘Early White Bush’ squash is a standout. This white-fruited variety has been cultivated for over 300 years and is especially suited for traditional Native American “Three Sisters” gardens. Another popular choice is the ‘Benning’s Green Tint,’ known for its vigorous growth and light green color. Those interested in French heritage varieties might enjoy ‘Patisson Panache Verte et Blanc’ or ‘Jaun et Verte,’ both of which have been cultivated since the 19th century. These varieties are white when young but develop hard, striped rinds if left to mature, becoming long-lasting decorative gourds.
In addition to historical varieties, hybrid cultivars like ‘Sunburst’ and ‘Total Eclipse’ are favored for their vibrant colors and productive yields. The bright yellow and green ‘Sunburst’ is especially prolific, while the dark green ‘Total Eclipse’ adds a striking contrast to the garden.
Growing Patty Pan Squash
Patty pan squash thrives in warm soil, making it an ideal crop for late spring to early summer planting. It is easy to grow from seed, with no need to start indoors. Simply plant seeds in well-warmed garden soil, where they will germinate quickly. Whether planted in rows or mounds, three to four plants can yield a generous harvest. Be prepared to pick squash at least twice a week while they’re still young and tender. Use garden clippers to cut them, leaving a small stub of the stem attached.
The plants grow into sprawling bushes, similar to yellow crookneck squash, though they are less prone to squash vine borers. Additionally, they show more resistance to powdery mildew than many other summer squash varieties. However, by the end of the season, disease and exhaustion may catch up with the plants. Expect the harvest to start around 60 days after planting, continuing for about a month.
Cooking with Patty Pan Squash
Patty pan squash’s slightly dense texture makes it perfect for a variety of cooking methods. Historically, it was often boiled and mashed with butter and cream, or breaded and fried, similar to eggplant. Its firm texture holds up well when roasted in the oven, air-fried, or grilled in thick crosswise “steaks.”
Another great way to prepare patty pan squash is by stuffing it. To do this, cut off the stem end to create a flat base, and use a melon baller or grapefruit spoon to hollow out the squash, leaving enough flesh to hold its shape. After sprinkling the squash with salt to draw out moisture, you can fill it with grains, meats, or pasta, creating a delightful dish.
When harvests exceed your needs, consider making pickle relish or freezing “boats” of squash. These can be carved, blanched, and frozen to enjoy in the winter. The fluted shape of these edible bowls adds a festive touch to holiday meals.